“We act as though comfort and luxury are the most important things in life but really all we need is something to be enthusiastic about”
Just got a letter from a great old friend of mine. My buddy went the other direction and became a doctor. A real good one. Super happy – family, house, car, vacations – the whole deal. So in this letter he commented on my climbing lifestyle and sent along the above quote. Thought I might find it rad. And for sure I do. Albert – such a genius on so many levels. He would have made an awesome rock climber. Imagine the lines he’d put up!
Albert would have been out there on a day like today.
The weather looked super dubious up at The Buttermilks so we headed out to The Happy Boulders for the day. Big weekend, lots of cars in lot, lots of people hiking up the trail with pads and bags and babies. Saturday at the crag. After passing Evolve’s Alex P. and Titinka in the parking lot I headed straight back to my project. Up on the hillside, super mellow. I had planned on being out at The Buttermilks today, and it has been about a week since I’d been back to this particular boulder problem. And sure enough it kicked my ass just like the last time. Though this time instead of working all the moves on the route I concentrated just on the lower moves. Concentrated progress?
The first move off the ground is super tensiony and the feet are thin. Then the move to a pocket/crimp out right is fun but awkward. My feet cut out and it does not feel smooth. The ensuing move is to a sharp crimp. Requires a fair amount of footwork to set up for it and strength to hold without my feet cutting out. The climb has great movement. Should be done gracefully, with a balanced supply of strength and technique. I have yet to link the start together. In the past I’ve worked through all the moves without focusing on the bottom section . Requires time.
“Gotta put the time in” Giovanni T said the other day at The Milks.
So I tried to pace myself well and work just the bottom moves. I have heard it said recently that a climber when working a project should take long breaks between burns in order to truly maintain power. Its difficult at times when super enthusiastic about something. The urger to just throw myself at a route is common. But I am realizing the importance of rest in order to get the most out of every attempt. There is only so much skin and energy one has in a session. Boulder problems that are at and above my limit are the most exciting for me to work on but I am learning how to be smart and efficient. Maybe less is more sometimes…… Even if it means sitting in a cave with little sunlight wearing three Prana sweatshirts to stay warm for longer then I’d hoped. Such is the way. Music helps. Its a good project for me. I’m psyched.
My Dr. buddy has lived quite a life so far, and he continues to do so. He inspires me on many levels. He does’nt rock climb, but not everyone is perfect. I do believe that Albert would approve of my dirtbag living in Bishop, Ca. And my buddies dazzling urbanite living in the east. Gotta find something rad to do. Days are long.
And a big congrats to Axel P for getting it done on Acid Wash today. Hard boulder problem! Boy is motivated.