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Monthly Archives: June 2012
the hole
The Hole “A little thing like that don’t cost nothing, and its just the little things that makes a man to be looked up to and liked.” Mark Twain Hank’s Suzuki truck got stuck in the river just south of … Continue reading
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the universe
the universe crazy crazy wave, crazy crazy drops, champions, heroes, so courageous, so smooth. courage. crazy crazy days when the wind blows offshore all day long. universal visions into green jungle and water to be barreled at high noon under … Continue reading
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Black sand dawn
Black sand dawn At dawn the wind blows offshore A slight chill in the air The sound of waves bigger this morning As water punishes the rocks below my home. At the beach it’s good that Hank is there And … Continue reading
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us interesting
Us Interesting Meditations delayed at a Bali airport en route around the globe en route to the fuck nation Meditations LCD Soundsystem while the monks board the plane meditations at the Buddha island at the Godly island at the wave … Continue reading
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slow dancing
Slow Dancing Thunderous In that majestic way, Quiet In that thunderous way. At dawn the ocean erupts Singing Billie Holiday songs to the grey sky, The splattered green, The air electric. It’s different In places of great power Where the … Continue reading
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Stripped
Stripped Meaty, kind of. What no one knows the better. All the waves. All the water. All the miles. I used to hear the music she smiled at a clear blue sky, I used to hear the music. At the … Continue reading
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Home
home. dirt roads, jungle pedigree, beach breaks and isolated mornings. meditating next to the sea, surfing big rights and peaky beach breaks, we all smile and its just fine. blue skies and sunshine mas o menos, he says when i … Continue reading
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“im so lucky to be able to go in the ocean everyday and do this!”
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