Monthly Archives: May 2012

offshore and no sleep and wet and barrels and genuis.

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“its all about love……”

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All In

all in graceful across morning waves no problems no worries no looks a lot of lefts on a light board in a zone graceful empty content pulling in all pulling in. from the water she looks elegant my lady my … Continue reading

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dane reynolds

Dane Reynolds This is what you shall do: Watch it over your right shoulder, Ease the board left, Stay in front of it, When it comes drop in casually and be beautiful, Crouch down into the barrel All the world … Continue reading

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Staying Stoked

Chris Bryan Films Phantom Reel from Chris Bryan on Vimeo.

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The Only Garden In Bali

The Only Garden in Bali Wild wild wild Even away from the sea Even away from the mountains Even away from the cliffs Even away from the boulders, Wild wild wild She stays with you always. Sunshine sunshine sunshine Bless … Continue reading

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The fabulous lightness of surfing

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Be Careful What You Pretend To Be

Be careful what you pretend to be. Strong is beautiful the billboard reads. Trying to look good limits my life the artist constructs. Billboards across the void of the mind Bring me back home To willow valleys And easy time … Continue reading

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the greatest day ever – its what you do with your time she said – and the heavy girl in the light spring dress danced all night free – and the heartbreak keeps her on hold – and the swell pushes up a bit and there are clean waves in the morning – and the sky pulses blue and the sunshine delights – and this is what you believe in – the greatest day ever.

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happy mothers day

Developing Vulnerable Kids Thru Sport South Africa a few months ago, as a gift to a friend over the holidays, i made a small donation to this cause in their name. it was a spontaneous action and i then quickly … Continue reading

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