Monthly Archives: May 2011

Travels It’s been a full month of surf travel. Over the past 4-5 weeks I’ve been surfing in Costa Rica, Southern California, Central California, Long Island, New York, and now back to Costa Rica for this most recent swell. It’s … Continue reading →

see God in everything. “you’ll get mixed up, of course, as you already know. you’ll get mixed up with many strange birds as you go. so be sure when you step. step with care and great tact and remember that … Continue reading →

“you have a good time this morning?” asked the old lady in white shoes as we waited together on the subway platform my surfboard bag next to me as I squatted on the ground tired enjoying the breeze listening to … Continue reading →

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bCwGZ8RYnOw (2 days ago) and yes there are waves just outside of the big apple and yes they were working this morning and yes it was fun and yes surfing is still awesome and yes it is a beast of … Continue reading →

A train – waist to shoulder – clean lefts – locals – sunshine – low tide – mid tide – longboards – airplanes – dumpster diver – clean walls – old old old school boardwalks – gangsters – surfing – … Continue reading →

Back home NYC new York city with a board bag two merrick short boards fresh new gear from prana and 510 an iPhone and a 4/3 wetsuits let’s get this rig going already please bring some waves Atlantic I’ve missed … Continue reading →

all the gold in the world can’t buy a good swell. “if you love something you should chase after it.”  malia manuel

“i cant live in the northern hemisphere.  i must live back, back into time, where all these animals, all this sea life, shellfish, crustaceans, is part of the smell.  everything has to come into the focus of the whole experience.  … Continue reading →

there is a super strong swell that’s beating the life out of the local beaches down here and causing some mega 10-20 ft waves paddled out this morning and avoided the larger bombs caught some good ones in the smaller … Continue reading →

“….I cant help feeling there’s something happening and things are not going to stay the same.  new philosophies are taking hold.  there is a great deal of change accuring in certain segments of the sport, and i hope you want … Continue reading →