Monthly Archives: March 2011

“sport” street movement

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BacPDrDeY8U “Skateboarding now is defined as a sport because people have figured out a way to monetize it—mainly companies that sell skateboard-related clothing and shoes and things. So it’s fallen into the realm of athletics. But it’s a “sport” that … Continue reading

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choice

there are few things as clear or as humbling as getting annihilated by the ocean all morning by choice and self will. every session is a practice in humility, patience, will and strength.  every session is a whole universe.  surfing … Continue reading

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a day of freedom

my cyclist friends used to tell me that “if you’re not suffering then you’re not doing it right.”  this made sense.  cycling is brutal.  i would relate that quote to rock climbing often.  when i was climbing a lot more.  … Continue reading

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right hand man

kelly slater must feel like God’s right hand man.  he must be very close to IT. when i have a good surf session, i catch maybe a handful of waves, on the smaller side usually, and if i can successfully … Continue reading

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it looks like vanilla sorbet

wave chasing in guanacaste, costa rica. the swell is still on and waves are unseasonably big for this time of year.  at night they crash outside my open window and it sounds like bombs going off in the area.  the … Continue reading

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back in business mortimor

“THIS IS WHAT YOU SHALL DO: LOVE THE EARTH AND SUN AND THE ANIMALS, DESPISE RICHES, GIVE ALMS TO EVERY ONE THAT ASKS, STAND UP FOR THE STUPID AND CRAZY, DEVOTE YOUR INCOME AND LABOR TO OTHERS, HATE TYRANTS, ARGUE … Continue reading

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l amour vie liebe

“we are all just bouncing into each other.”  A “it contributes greatly towards a man’s moral and intellectual health, to be brought into habits of companionship with individuals unlike himself, who care little for his pursuits, and whose sphere and … Continue reading

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world water day

hi. today is world water day.  so i learned from the folks at the surfrider foundation.  march 22, 2011.  a day to conserve on water and learn and put into practice ways to use less water.  be thoughtful.  water is … Continue reading

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hard – rip sion

its barreling 6ft plus outside and offshore all day and beautiful but i had to go into the city today to purchase parts for my ever adventurous truck.  i bought a truck.  i now own a truck in costa rica.  … Continue reading

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float like a butterfly, sting like a bee

this is really beautiful and truly amazing.  there is so much awesome stuff to do in the world.  ahhhhhh, sweet focus.  lovely practice.  watch the whole thing.  its like a meditation.  a symphony. as always thanks to prana for the … Continue reading

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