Monthly Archives: January 2011

mushy mushy mushy good morning surf ocean. how much water can your high tide bring?  enough to drown out the waves – bring the rain – low clouds across the hills it looks like africa as i imagine africa to … Continue reading →

she was like an angel. a real mermaid. a rainbow. i paddled out this morning at dawn and there she sat on a heavily waxed red long board. easily scanning the horizon. wearing a purple bikini bottom and a green … Continue reading →

NYC to host the Quiksilver pro tour in 2011. hollar. http://www.surfline.com/surf-news/new-york-to-host-asp-world-tour-event_52057/ ahhhhh, home town to represent the big tour.  the whole pinapple.  the big burrito.  the enchilada.  ny state of mind. jay z for the national anthem……..

awake at 545am. its still dark out. i’m silly tired. slept in a parking lot by the beach. the sound of the waves lulled me to sleep. in the morning i hear nothing but an alarm from my cell phone … Continue reading →

“waves are not measured in feet and inches but in increments of fear.” Buzz Trent, big wave surfer The california swell is still on. according to surfline this swell is longer then thought and longer then usual for california. will … Continue reading →

tired.  very tired. double sessions.  good waves.  clean.  tired.  very tired. no end in sight. surfing it the hardest thing ever.

back to rincon in time for dawn patrol this morning. tore out of LA last night and drove straight to the beach. was fun to be surfing and hanging in venice again for a little bit but this california swell … Continue reading →

its very rare to paddle out anywhere here in california and find yourself alone at a surf break. to paddle out alone anywhere else in the world for that matter. such is the situation as the popularity of surfing grows … Continue reading →

i totally heart 5.10.  always rad and pushing it to the edge.  always.  when we get some surfing up in here it will complete me.

awesome day out at rincon! was out at dawn (proper dawn patrol), 630am. still a little late. gotta get there at and in the water at like 6am. really catch the sun coming up. and the line up is thin … Continue reading →